Archive for September, 2009

When It’s Restaurant Week, Go Out. Go Eat. Go Texan

Trio’s Breakfast of Champions

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They say Wheaties is the breakfast of Champions. After the breakfast I had this morning, I’d have to disagree. Seated by the window of the lovely Trio restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel, my friend, Stacy and I couldn’t help but wish we had just risen from a long night’s slumber at the hotel in what many have called the most comfortable beds in the world. Alas, we were simply breakfast visitors, but with a fresh pot of Illy coffee and a sip of raspberry-pineapple-orange juice, we were just as pleased to be greeting the day in this cheery spot.

Trio offers a lovely selection of light and full breakfasts with everything from oatmeal and fruit to the classic American breakfast with eggs, meat, potatoes, and toast. Stacy quickly honed in on the acclaimed pancake trio with a banana-blueberry, a gingerbread, and a pecan-oatmeal pancake for a guaranteed sugar-rush meal, but I was here for one thing only, the Farmer’s Market Breakfast.

As part of the Texas Department of Agriculture’s Go Texan Restaurant Round-Up, this healthy-yet-hearty meal made with all Texas-based ingredients had been touted for weeks as the breakfast to beat all breakfasts and considering breakfast is without question my favorite meal of the day, I had to see for myself.

I have to admit I wasn’t disappointed. A big fluffy, bright yellow scramble of Alexander Family Farm eggs from Del Valle served with slices of fresh heirloom tomatoes sprinkled with crumbles of Pure Luck goat cheese from Dripping Springs made a beautiful first impression. And a sizzling side of spicy Elgin smoked sausage gave a decidedly Texas flavor to the meal, but the piece-de-resistance was the golden corn griddlecake served warm with a sweet drizzle of homemade blackberry syrup. This light-as-air circle of goodness had a perfect not-too-sweet quality with a peppering of fresh corn kernels throughout that brought a pleasant burst of sweetness with each bite.

Watch out, Wheaties, Trio’s Farmer’s Market Breakfast has your number. Wholesome, fresh, local, and delicious, this new breakfast champion takes the cake. (Or perhaps I should say, the golden corn griddlecake.)

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Roar of the Fork

Having finally recovered from my blissful breakfast coma—thanks to a lengthy stop at the gym and a light nibble for lunch—I was ready for round two. Next on the list for the Go Texan Restaurant Roundup: The Roaring Fork. I love this place. Although Texas can’t really claim it as its own, this Arizona-based American grill rewards hearty eaters with Western-style comfort food with a kick. From the green-chile-pork stew to the smoked ribs with Dr. Pepper barbecue sauce and the “Big Ass” burger with longhorn cheddar and smoked bacon, you’d think this menu was designed deep in the heart of the Lone Star State.

This week, the Roaring Fork chefs have devised a few special treats using the best of Texas ingredients. Tonight we started with fresh gulf oysters roasted in a field pea and corn succotash and topped with bacon and chives. I’m a fan of oysters in general—whether baked Rockefeller-style or simply raw with a squeeze of lemon and glass of champagne. This dish of oysters served on a piping-hot mound of rock salt could have stood alone in their creamy salsa of corn, field pea, poblano pepper, and onion, but the extra hint of smoky bacon simply proved the undeniable truth that everything is indeed better with bacon.

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Next was a devilishly good tenderloin of Axis venison from Broken Arrow Ranch in Ingram. (For those unfamiliar with Axis deer, they are similar in size to the native Texas whitetail, but maintain a reddish coat with white spots throughout their life, similar to a fawn. And the meat is spectacular. Less gamey than whitetail venison, Axis has a very lean, yet tender texture with a richer flavor similar to elk, but lighter than beef.) This dish was grilled in a sweet guajillo pepper glaze and served with a creamy mash of sweet potatoes from the Panhandle and a sauté of woodland mushrooms. It was heaven. And I honestly could have walked away from the table perfectly happy. But there was a certain Texas-pecan pie calling from the menu that I just had to try. Though not the dreamy sweet, gooey, and buttery slice of delight my grandmother used to make, this pie was pretty good—especially with the added hint of bourbon baked in. I think the butter-pecan ice cream served alongside may have been a little pecan-overkill, but then again, I’ve always been a plain vanilla girl when it comes to pies and cakes.

That being said, the Roaring Fork wins in the category of the most Go Texan menu for a restaurant that didn’t even originate in Texas. I look forward to checking out a few other locales on the round-up list. Only 4 more days to go!

Shake It. Stir It. Love It. It’s Austin – As Seen on Eat My Words on Texasmonthly.com

la condesaEvery town needs a cocktail to call its own. New York has the Manhattan (and for a good few years in the late ’90s, the Appletini), New Orleans has the Sazerac, and Milwaukee has, what else? Beer. When it comes to signature cocktails, Austin is no different. Except that instead of claiming just one “cocktail of all time,” this city of creative thought, live music, and generally keeping things weird, likes to name a new signature cocktail every year at the Austin Cocktail Throwdown.

In the past the town has seen the spicy-yet-controversial (long story) “Batini” from Lamberts, and more recently the “Fire In the Hole” from Ranch 616, which was simply a shot taken from a whole jalapeño filled with Tito’s Vodka, Paula’s Texas Orange liqueur, and lime juice, which is then followed by a chaser of Lone Star beer. (It doesn’t get more Austin-y than that!)

This year more than 20 local restaurants and bars entered their best concoctions into the 6th Annual Austin Cocktail Throwdown hosted by the Austin Convention and Visitors Bureau and sponsored by Tito’s Vodka.  The mission was simple: design a cocktail that has a distinctive “Austin” feel showcasing local ingredients and capturing the personality of this city. (Oh, and they had to use Tito’s vodka, of course.) The original entries were anonymously judged and narrowed down to a consummate top 5. (The most points were awarded for creativity, feasibility to be made year-round in a busy bar, and menu appeal.)

Read more…

Lamberts: No more Cream O’ Wheat, But New Additions to Make You Smile

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No More Cream O’ Wheat

Last Week, my husband and I joined a few friends for drinks at Lamberts. As is usually the case, we spent way too much time dithering over trying something new from the cocktail menu before settling on our old standbys; the Kentucky Thyme Lemonade for me (light on the sweet, heavy on the tart.); the lemony Shandy made with Blanche de Brussels and Limonata for my husband. It was actually his second choice. Sadly, his absolute favorite beer beverage, the Cream O’ Wheat has been stricken from the menu.  A simple mix of halves and halves, the Cream O’ Wheat was a happy marriage of equal parts Hooegarden (a Belgian-style wheat beer) and Guinness–It’s enough for a meal in itself, but rich and flavorful nonetheless.

Though this memorable macho apertif is no longer there, we did find a few new menu items to entice us to stay for dinner.

Memories of Cornmeal

The first was an appetizer of shrimp and toast. Seemingly simple, this dish had a nice twist to it with a creamy tarter sauce and thinly-sliced cucumbers spread on smoky grilled Texas Toast; a sort of nod to old-style English cucumber sandwiches. And unlike many battered and fried shrimp that arrive greasy and cake-y to the table, these little babies were crisp and golden brown in a cornmeal dusting.

The cornmeal reminded me of the big fish fry-s we’d have when I was a kid with my cousins. My aunt used to take my uncle’s fresh catch from a day of fishing and within minutes, she was heating up oil and serving up crunchy cornmeal- and beer-battered bass with a side of hushpuppies, cocktail sauce, and a cold Corona. (The Corona was for her. The rest was for me and my cousins to devour.)

Ok, so this was slightly more advanced than that. But the experience was just the same–we devoured it, cucumber toast and all.

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Sensational Salad

Lamberts has a way of making the average side salad seem anemic and plain against its menu of leafy greens. The grilled fig and arugula salad is no exception. A slightly wilted bunch of peppery arugula bathed in honey-balsamic dressing and slices of Manchego cheese would seem perfect enough but for the sweet and sugary grilled figs wrapped in smoky duck-prosciutto. (Cured in-house, of course.)

Even on a Wednesday, this place was packed. What I like about Lamberts is its casual-meets-fine dining feel. Business types in suits having afterwork drinks and apps over serious tete-a-tetes, cozy couples out for a not-so-ordinary midweek dinner, and gussied-up glam girls looking for fun on a girl’s night out. You’ll see it all here. But what you don’t see is pretention. At least not usually.

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Other Than Barbecue

Though Lamberts may bill itself as Fancy Barbecue, I’ve found I’m most impressed with the food when I order something other than barbecue–meaning, anything that you wouldn’t normally grab jar of sweet or vinegary sauce to slather on your entree.

Last week was no exception. The plump, grilled Hawaiian Swordfish was delightful–especially with a sweet watermelon, mint, and cucumber vinaigrette. But our favorite dish was a sliced Akaushi flat iron steak from Yoakum. This juicy beauty was served rare/medium-rare with a nice crusty salt and pepper rub. But the belle of the ball for this steak was the tangy fennel and caper chimmichurri spread all over it. Fresh. Tart. Sweet. Savory. They say chimmichurri is the new “it” condiment for 2009. If it tastes anything like this, I’d say they’re right…



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